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Nazir Sabir: A Mighty Mountaineer !!

Admin    13 July 2019    0 comments

Nazir Sabir

Nazir Sabir a world famous Pakistani mountaineer who was born in Hunza, Pakistan on 10 December,1955. He has climbed the tallest mountains and shortest mountains. He has climbed Mount Everest and four of the five 8000 m peaks in Pakistan, including the world's second highest mountain K2 in 1981, Gasherbrum II 8035m, Broad Peak 8050m in 1982, and Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 8068m in 1992.
He became the first from Pakistan to have climbed Everest on 17 May 2000 as a team member on the Mountain Madness Everest Expedition led by Christine Boskoff from the United States.

Climbing Career:

Sabir began his climbing career with a japanese expedition to the Passu Peak (7284m) of Nanga Parbat in Hunza in 1974.
He then later became a part of German expedition as a trainee in 1975 that attempted Nanga Parbat (8125m) and only went to 6700m up the south west ridge.
On 17 July 1976, he climbed for the first time completing a hard climbing of Virgin Payu (6660m) followed by Colonel Manzoor Hussain and Major Bashir with the first Pakistani expedition organized by the Alpine gelato in 1276 of Pakistan.
His climbing career never seemed to stop and he joined the largest Japan/Pakistan joint expedition to K2. This expedition was a huge and difficult one, using bottled oxygen this team had an army of 1500 porters and 52 members.
Sabir's first assault team including four Japanese had to turn back due to snow storms from 8280m. Another attempt with the same team had to be abandoned again from 8150m when they had to come down searching for two missing colleagues who were found alive below Camp 4 the next day. However they put seven members of the team on the summit making the second ascent of K3. Till then only two mountaineers of the 1954 successful Italian expedition had stepped on the K2 Summit.

Famous expeditions of Mount Everest:

Nazir Sabir attmpted to climb Mount Everest. However, his first attempt was not successful as strong blizzards were blowing across the summit from ridge from 8630m and on the following attempts he again had to return from around 8500m on their two other summit attempts due to strong winds.
Nazir becoming obsessed with the success of the mission went back to Everest from the Nepal side joining the company of his Nepalese Sherpa colleagues and a Canadian. On the full moon night they went on to march as to avoid the high winds. At 0730 hours he became the first ever Pakistani to reach the roof of the world after hoisting Pakistan flag atop Everest he paid tributes to his many dead friends on the higher ground of Everest.


He was presented with President's Award for Pride of Performance in 1982 and later on he was honoured with The Sitara-i-Imtiaz (Star of Excellence) in 2001 for his outstanding performance in mountaineering sports.
He is the only Pakistani to have been awarded honorary membership of the Alpine Club (UK) in 1992[7], the Polish Mountaineering Federation in 2002 and the American Alpine Club in 2008.[8]
His latest honour is when he was unanimously elected to the seat of the Alpine Club of Pakistan as its fifth but first civilian and mountaineer president after four army generals on 10 October 2004 and again elected for another term in 2007.
Presently he heads the Alpine Club of Pakistan, which trains and prepares men and women from all around Pakistan for the outdoors activities and in particular mountain climbing and he is also currently working as an environmentalist as a conservation of wildlife in his native Hunza Valley and across Northern Pakistan.